Two Story Tellers

Part 2 - (May 22 – May 24, 2019) – Hannibal, Missouri, Springfield, Illinois

Mid-afternoon the Professor and I departed Hannibal over the Mark Twain Memorial Bridge on Interstate 72 into the heart of the Land of Lincoln. Aside George Washington, Abraham Lincoln (1809 – 1865) is the United States’ most revered and loved President. Just behind state government, Lincoln is Springfield’s economic juggernaut. If you are interested in American history there is much to see in Capitol of Illinois.

Springfield was not always Illinois’ Capitol. Illinois was admitted into the United States in 1818. What is not well known, the state was settled eastward from the Mississippi River. As Illinois population moved east, in order to have a more central location, the Capitol was moved several times. Springfield was settled on in 1837, a result of legislative compromise. Earlier Capitols were in Kaskaskia and Vandalia. For chronological perspective, the City of Chicago was not incorporated until 1837.

Our next two days were spent scouting out and studying. We began our first full day at the Lincoln Home National Historic Site. The site consists of about four blocks that have been acquired and restored to the period when Abraham and Mary Todd Lincoln lived in Springfield with their sons. Touring the Lincoln home was informative and showed a glimpse into Lincoln’s love for his boys and the prosperous lifestyle the Lincoln’s enjoyed as a result of the Railsplitter’s success as a railroad lawyer and politician.

On one of the walls in the Lincoln home was a maxim that stirred me – “Love is the chain whereby to lock a child to its parent.” Post trip research indicates the quote is attributed to Abraham Lincoln.

Our next stop was Springfield’s most popular attraction the Abraham Lincoln Museum. This 21^st century museum was constructed and is operated by the State of Illinois. The Museum tells the Lincoln story. The boy born in the Kentucky wilderness, orphaned, self-educated, and with character building and historic stops along his life’s highway to saving the Nation from itself (“a house divided against of itself cannot stand.”)

The Lincoln story is well told. The exhibits are educational and while simple are crisp. The use of technology is marvelous and presented at about an eighth-grade level, perfect for the many school field trips that travel to Springfield. Anchoring the extensive exhibits are two theatres, one showing a biopic, the other presenting an impressive electronic / holographic production.

Among the many well-known topics and Lincoln accomplishments covered chronologically in the exhibits (this is a long list!) are losing his mother, the role his step mother, Sarah Johnston, played in his life, his being largely self-educated, his early travels, becoming an Illinois State Representative, the decision to become a lawyer, his marriage to Mary Todd, becoming a United States Representative, the Lincoln Douglas debates, his Cooper Union Speech, his politically complex Presidential election, Commander and Chief during the Civil War, the Emancipation Proclamation, his Gettysburg Address, passing the Thirteenth Amendment, his Second Inaugural Address, the early death of two of his four sons, the assassination that made him a martyr, and predictably the focus on his return and burial in Springfield.

I especially found interesting the relationships Mary Todd and Abraham had with statesman Henry Clay. Mary was a native of Lexington, Kentucky also the home of Clay. The Todd and Clay families were closely associated in Lexington. Lincoln often sought advice and was mentored by Clay, particularly when he served in the U. S. House and Clay was in the U. S. Senate.

Historical note – Besides being in the U S Senate for thirteen years, Henry Clay served as Secretary of State four years in the John Quincy Adams administration, was elected to the U S Congress seven times, serving six terms as Speaker of the House (he was elected Speaker as a Freshman!), and served as a Commissioner to peace talks with the British to end the War of 1812 resulting in the Treaty of Ghent.

After the Lincoln Museum visit, we headed kitty-corner across the street to the Old State Capitol. The capitol now is solely a historical tourist attraction. The Old Capitol was vacated when the new Capitol building was completed in 1877. 

The Old State Capitol was the most engaging site we visited.The Old State Capitol sits on a mammoth square block. Unlike Iowa’s Old State Capitol in Iowa City that is pristine; Illinois “Old State” while adequately maintained begs for restoration. Given Illinois’ current state of finance, restoration though necessary is not likely soon.

The simple function of the building impressed me. On the first floor is the Governor’s Office, Secretary of State’s Office, Treasurer’s Office, and Legislator’s Library that appeared might have served as the Legislative Lobby. The fantastic tour guide pointed out a chess board that sat aside the broad reading table in the Library giving her the cue to tell us State Representative Lincoln was an avid chess player. The second floor contained the Supreme Courtroom, and individual legislative chambers for the Illinois House of Representatives, and the Illinois Senate.

 

Behind the Speaker of the House’s Chair is a copy of the Gilbert Stuart portrait of George Washington that now resides in the East Room at the White House in Washington, D. C. This important painting was taken and saved by First Lady Dolly Madison when escaping the burning White House torched by the British in 1814. While the Stuart in Springfield is a copy, it is important because it is the copy that overlooked Lincoln when he lied in State in that very room. More interesting is the Matthew Harris Jouett portrait of Marquis de Lafayette behind the presiding officer’s chair in the Senate chamber. I found it meaningful Illinois honored Lafayette. I failed to determine if the Marquis was a copy or the original.

The best of the best in Capitol the Elder was the life-sized sculpture of the “Little Giant”, Stephen A Douglas. The sculpture highlighted Douglas was physically a small man, five foot four inches in height. However, the sculptor portrayed him like a bear, tough and determined! Douglas was The Political Force in Illinois during his day. He served briefly as Illinois Secretary of State. Then served for two years as a Justice on the Illinois Supreme Court, four years as U S Representative, and fourteen years as U S Senator from Illinois. Douglas was the Democratic Party nominee for President in 1860.

Lincoln and Douglas had a history for almost three decades. During most of that time Douglas held the upper hand. Their history extending from when Lincoln served in the Illinois State House while Douglas was Secretary of State, Lincoln arguing more than two hundred and fifty cases before Associate Justice Douglas in the Illinois Supreme Court, Lincoln serving the Seventh Congressional District in the U. S. House while Douglas was the U S Senator from Illinois, and notably when Lincoln opposed Douglas for his Senate seat in 1858 resulting in the Lincoln-Douglas debates taking place. The debates were closely followed nationwide and fueled the flames of the national firestorm consuming the United States on the slavery question. Lincoln lost the election.

Historical note – Lincoln met Mary Todd when she had moved to Springfield to live with her sister. Mary had also been courted by Stephen Douglas.

The master Illinois Statesmen faced off again politically in the 1860 Presidential where Lincoln the Republican nominee (180 electoral votes) John C. Breckenridge the Southern Democratic nominee (72 electoral votes), John Bell the Constitution Union nominee (39 electoral votes), and Douglas the Democratic nominee (12 electoral votes.) contested for the White House. Lincoln advocated for Union, Douglas self-determination. Lincoln won the election.

Our last stop of the day was Lincoln’s Tomb at Oak Ridge Cemetery north and west of City Center. The tomb was built with private donations and is extensive. This historic site is operated by the Illinois Historic Preservation Agency. Lincoln is laid to rest beneath the tomb covered by ten feet of concrete a result of grave robbers attempting to unearth his remains in 1876. Also residing within the tomb are Mary Todd, and sons Tad, Willie, and Eddie. Son, Robert, is buried at Arlington National Cemetery.

Side bar – Robert Lincoln served as Secretary of War under President’s Garfield and Arthur and United States Ambassador to the United Kingdom under President’s Benjamin Harrison, and Cleveland.

On the night Lincoln was assassinated, Robert declined his Father and Mother’s invitation to accompany them to Ford’s Theatre, however when called, he arrived at his Father’s death bed. In an oddity of history Robert was present at both the assassination of President James Garfield and President William McKinley.

Inside the tomb are entrance and exit passageways to Lincoln’s headstone are statues of Lincoln. The gigantic headstone is surrounded by important National and State flags that define Abraham Lincoln. Behind and above the grave site emblazoned in gold is the quotation by Edwin M Stanton, “Now he belongs to the ages.”

The tomb’s exterior is capped by an obelisk 117 feet high and in front of the tomb is a mounted bust of Lincoln copied from the Gutzon Borglum statue of Lincoln in the U. S. Capitol.

Our second and last day in Springfield began with a tour of the Dana Thomas House. This twelve thousand five hundred square foot Frank Lloyd Wright house was constructed between 1902 and 1904. I particularly liked the profusion of windows, the library, and the entertainment gallery. It was the first home in Springfield with electricity. In many respects the Dana Thomas home is like other Wright homes, however what captured me was how easily the home blended nature and architecture.

Leaving the Dana Thomas House, we traveled twenty miles north to the Lincoln New Salem Historic Site. New Salem is the village where Lincoln lived from 1831 to 1837. The village was essentially abandoned in 1840, but the site was purchased in 1906 by William Randolph Hearst. Hearst later gifted New Salem to a local historical group. During the 1930’s the State of Illinois took ownership of the real estate and with assistance from the Civilian Conservation Corps restored the grounds to how it appeared when Lincoln was there.

The re-creation gives understanding to Lincoln’s personal development. While living in New Salem, Lincoln worked as a boatman, railsplitter, soldier, surveyor, postmaster, and general store owner. History records the store failed. Failed perhaps because Honest Abe spent too much of his time entertaining his customers, telling them stories, or talking politics. However, these diversions served him well. He developed thoughtfulness and empathy during this time. He enhanced his communication skills. Beyond being likeable and telling a good story he learned to be very effective in his use of parables to make legal and political arguments. Lincoln’s thoughtfulness and personality enabled his election to the State Legislature in 1834 and would lead to his uniting a divided nation. 

The historic village contains some twenty something farmsteads, homes, and commercial buildings. The buildings rest in a heavily wooded area; particularly on the day we visited the woods were ripe with ticks and mosquitos. 

Accompanying the village is an excellent visitor center that details Lincoln’s time in New Salem. The center’s content is more detailed and geared to students of history than the glamourous museum in Springfield.

Back in the Capitol City our last stop was at the Illinois State Museum. Frankly a disappointment. The Illinois history presented was modest at best and does not compare to the other rather less than great State museums I recently visited in Texas and New Mexico. If your interest is geology (mine isn’t), the Illinois State Museum does place emphasis on it. The museum does contain some interesting folk art.

Touring really isn’t touring without food. We interspersed our sightseeing and study time with quality meals at Saputo Italian Food, Obed & Isaac’s Microbrewery, and Mangia Bene. All are worthy. We capped each night off with a stop at Cold Stone Creamery, and lodged very comfortably, where else - The President Abraham Lincoln Hotel (Double Tree - Hilton ***).

When the Professor and I previously traveled to the Presidential Museums in Abilene, Kansas (Eisenhower) and Independence, Missouri (Truman) I recognized a strong character connection formed by their geographic proximity and commanding leadership skills (General of the Army and The Buck Stops Here!)

Spending this holiday weekend studying the history and lives of Samuel Clemens and Abraham Lincoln, I felt a similar connection. Undoubtedly their connection is a product of their shared geography, but more on the commonality of their wit,  shared personality traits, and their excellent communication skills.

Both Twain and Lincoln were self-made men. They both suffered the multiple losses of young children, and both were historically and notably great story tellers. History may judge it as an open question but living on the edge of the frontier and making personal connections has something to do with their story telling.

Throw in traveling with a great friend and seeing America's heartland, it was a great journey.